From the CWT sign- Fort Boykin was originally built in 1623 to protect the colonists against the Spaniards by sea and the Indians by land and called “The Castle.” Rebuilt during the Revolutionary War it was renamed Fort Boykin in honor of Major Francis Boykin. This seven-pointed star-shaped fort was also activated to defend Virginia against the British during the War of 1812. Fort Boykin’s steep cliffs and commanding view of the James River made it an important position from which the Confederates could defend Richmond. The fort was manned by Confederate forces shortly after Virginia’s secession from the Union. Fort Boykin was the south side anchor of Confederate Major General John Bankhead Magruder’s Second Peninsula Defensive Line which stretched from Burwell’s Bay across the James River to Mulberry Island; and followed the Warwick River to Yorktown and then across the York River to Gloucester Point. It was a formidable defensive system which, with the help of the powerful ironclad ram CSS Virginia, was able to block Major General George McClellan’s advance toward Richmond during the Peninsula Campaign’s initial phases.

Norfolk’s capture by the Union and the subsequent destruction of the CSS Virginia opened the James River to the Union fleet. On May 8, 1862, the USS Galena, USS Minnesota, and USS Susquehanna shelled Fort Boykin and, since the Federal fleet’s guns out-ranged those of the fort, the Confederates abandoned the earthwork. Union ships returned on May 17th and blew up the fort’s powder magazines.

Markers outside the fort entrance

The maps below are from the park brochure and the marker at the entry to the fort.

At the top of the stairs one can go straight to the parade ground or left to stop #12 the Greer garden.

1- Gun Salient – This gun salient protected the fort from attack over land. The construction is typical of the Civil War period. It is believed that an Army Columbarium was used at this position.

View of the moat from the top of the rampart

2a- Black Walnut– It is believed to be the second largest Black Walnut in the state. This tree dominates the parade ground. The approximate age of the tree is 200 years plus.

2b- Parade Ground – The parade ground was used to assemble troops and perform all ceremonial activities.

3. Magazine A – Built in 1861-1862, this magazine was destroyed by a Union landing party. Fragments of brick are still found throughout Fort Boykin.

Climbing to the top of the bombproof to photograph the collapsed roof

4. Well – The date of this well is unknown. It is believed to have been built before 1860. Many artifacts, which were thrown in by Confederate troops before they abandoned the fort, were excavated from the well.

Stop #5– The James River– View of the river from the fence. Passage to Richmond by water is possible by the James River. Protection of Richmond was the Confederates’ primary reason for locating here.

Walking toward stop #6 and the area of the restrooms

6. Magazine B 

7. Beach Access– the marker below is near the path leading to the beach

River from the sign

8. Chimney Base – The brick fireplace was used to prepare food and as a place to gather. Around this area were living quarters and the headquarters for Confederate troops.

9. Flag Mound– Each morning and evening the Confederate flag was raised and lowered at this mound.

10. Gun Salient

11. Barn Area

12. Greer Garden – This garden was designed by Mr. and Mrs. Herbert Greer, who lived at the fort from 1908-1931.

There is a break in the wall in the Greer Garder field which may represent the site of a Sally Port.

The rampart flanking the possible Sally Port location

Next- The Peninsula Campaign Part 8- A Civil War Traveler Goes to Jamestown?