The Battle of the North Anna River Walking Tour- The Gray Trail

From the Blue and Gray Education Web Site-North Anna–Ox Ford County Park is BGES’ Flagship operation with a relationship of more than 20 years. To date, BGES has completed three sign projects at this pristine county-managed battlefield park. We also have completed a site brochure, sponsored a regional map of historical sites, and are consulting on interpretation near Gaines Mill/Cold Harbor. A visit to North Anna includes 23 signs divided between a Blue Trail (13 signs) and a Gray Trail (10 signs). In 2014 the BGES received the Patrick Henry Award from the Hanover County Historical Society for its contributions to the community.

The North Anna Battlefield Park Sign Project link

Link
Ox Ford
Confederate Earthworks on the Red Trail
Anderson and Ewell’s lines

Total distance to walk to each stop is 2,232 yards. Walking time is 31 minutes. Walking time + 4 minutes at each stop totals 71 minutes. Total distance round trip, returning from Stop 10 to parking lot is 3,598 yards or 2.04 miles. Total round trip walking time is 88 minutes. Distance from Stop 7 directly to the Parking Lot: 1,021 yards or 0.58 miles, 13 minutes. Distance from Stop 10 directly to Parking Lot: 1,366 yards or 0.77 miles, 17 min. Note-mile (=) 1,760 yards or 5,280 feet. The wording from the stops below is from the brochure. Bottom line- you’re going to a lot of walking.

Entrance

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Parking Lot

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The trail will examine Lee and Smith’s inverted V fortification, which is shown below from a map in Blue and Gray Magazine. The part of the fortification that the trail covers is indicated by the black box.

Map from Blue and Gray Magazine Volume XXXI #6, 2015

The first earthwork I saw entering the trail was on the immediate right. This is an old, reconstructed earthwork and not a wartime structure.

Stop #1- The Ox Ford Road, May 23, 1864. At 11:00AM Confederate artillery and infantry units moved along Ox Road in front of you to cover the vital Ox Ford crossing of the North Anna River.

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Stop #2- Colonel David Weisiger’s Virginia Regiments.

The five Virginia regiments led by Colonel David A. Weisiger began construction of the trenches before you on the morning of May 24 and continued to work on them during the next two days. An open field lay beyond the trench line. You will observe wide artillery pits as well as numerous traverses, or short trenches, which protrude back from the main trench. These “side” trenches protected the soldiers from flanking fire from across the river.

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Weisiger’s location can be seen on the map
An excellent example between stops 2 and 3 of the multiple traverses in the earthwork

At Stop #2, instead of following the trail toward Stop #3, I took a short detour down the path which after a few hundred yards dead ends. The Confederate line was on my right as I walked down the trail.

Path
Trench
Trench
Traverse

Stop #3- Battle of the Skirmish Line, May 24, 2 to 4pm. 400 yards in front of these trenches, 300 Confederate sharpshooters from Weisiger’s Virginia and Colonel John Sanders Alabama Brigades delayed units of the Union Fifth Corps for two hours so these works could be finished. Units of the Fifth Corps led by Brigadier General Samuel W. Crawford, supported Burnside’s advance but ran directly into the sharpshooter battalions. The opposing forces clashed about 400 yards in front of these trenches and just beyond the tree line indicated on the map. Weisiger’s and Sanders’ 300 sharpshooters held the Union advance for two hours, giving their comrades time to complete the Confederate line.

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The tree is lying across the side of a traverse
Traverse occupies almost all of the lower 2/3 of the screen
Another traverse

The video nicely shows the features of the fortifications here.

Stop #4- One Brigade Alone, May 24, 3 to 4PM. The first unit of the Union Ninth Corps to cross the North Anna River was Brigadier General James H. Ledlie’s 1500-man brigade by 3:00 PM. He was to advance along the river and clear Confederate troops from Ox Ford. He ordered the 35th Massachusetts forward across an open field to test the Confederate line. They were easily routed. Ledlie was new to his command, and was drunk.

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Stop #5- The Heart of Dixie, May 24, 3:45 PM. These trenches were manned by Brigadier General Nathaniel Harris’ Mississippi Brigade. Soldiers went out here to capture several men of the 35th Massachusetts’ Infantry. The small pits behind the trench line served as an area from which the brigade commander, his staff, and his medical and supply personnel could operate in relative safety. 

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Stop #6- “Come on to Richmond”, May 24, 6:00 PM. Against the order of his division commander, the drunken Ledlie ordered his brigade to assault the trenches before you. When the Federals were within 200 yards, Confederate troops opened with artillery and rifle fire. At the same time a thunderstorm began. Some Confederate troops stood on these entrenchments and shouted “Come on Yank, come on to Richmond”.

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Stop #7- “Save yourselves if you can,” 6 to 7 PM. Seeing that Ledlie’s Brigade was unsupported, the 12th Mississippi came out of its trenches and charged down the slope to your front. The 8th and 11th Alabama from Sander’s Brigade, to your left, attacked the Union right flank. The Union line broke and ran for safety. Lieutenant Colonel Charles Chandler, 57th Massachusetts, fell mortally wounded. He told soldiers trying to help him “save yourselves if you can”.

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Stop #8- The Inverted V, May 23, 6:45 PM. This is the tip of General Lee’s famous “Inverted V’ defensive position. The trenches on your left ran 1.5 miles to Little River. Those on the right went 2 miles to a bend in the North Anna River. This position was unassailable, and key to Lee’s defense. This area was held by Brigadier General Ambrose “Rans” Wright’s Georgia brigade which assisted in repelling Ledlie’s brigade on the evening of May 24.

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Standing near the tip of the inverted V looking south.
The trenches on the left ran southeast towards Hanover Junction. The North Anna River and Ox Ford are to the rear of this vantage point.
The trenches on the right continued southwest to the Little River. The North Anna River and Ox Ford are to the rear of this vantage point.

The trench extends along the path to the sign below.

Stop #9- One More River to Cross, May 24-26. By the evening of May 24, Grant realized Lee was not retreating, and his army was divided in three parts, one on either side of these entrenchments, and one across the river. Lee intended to strike Hancock’s Corps on the east side but was too sick to lead the attack. From the gun pits served by McIntosh’s artillery battalion, you can easily see the natural strength of the Confederate position. 

On the way to stop #9 an advance trench runs right on the top of the ridgeline in front of the inverted V.

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Stop #10- Artillery Duel, May 25-26. Union artillery fired at least 3,000 rounds at these positions. On the evening of May 26, Grant pulled the Army of the Potomac back from the North Anna River and again moved around the right flank of the Army of Northern Virginia. You are standing before the trench line of the 10th Georgia Battalion, which held the right flank of Wright’s brigade. The Florida brigade and Lane’s artillery battalion held the position across the ravine to your right. 

A trench runs on the left of the path to stop #10.

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Next- The Battle of the North Anna River- The Blue Trail