Auto Tour- The Battles of Totopotomoy Creek

This tour covers significant sites related to the battles fought in the Totopotomoy Creek Series including Bethesda Church, Haw’s Shop/Salem Church, Enon Church, Polly Hundley’s Corner, Rural Plains and Polegreen Church.

Bethesda Church- 37.6284667, -77.2949000. This battle occurred on May 30th as a result of faulty intelligence Lee received from a scout who reported that the Federal cavalry beyond the Confederate right flank near Old Church were moving south toward Cold Harbor. Lee concluded that Grant contemplating another move around his right. Although Sheridan was at Old Church Grant was not massing troops for a move around Lee’s right. As a result, General Lee decided to go on the offensive. The destruction of Warren’s Corps, isolated on the south side of Totopotomoy Creek, would be his objective. Early would advance Rodes’ division as a probe east along Old Church Road. If he needed to he would move his remaining two divisions (Ramseur and Gordon) in support. Anderson was to attack Warren’s column on Shady Grove Road holding Griffin and Cutler in place while Ramseur moved around Warren’s left flank, attacking him from two directions simultaneously. Rodes division headed north from Bethesda Church with Ramseur to his left and routed an advanced Federal force. As Rodes’ and Ramseur’s divisions rapidly advanced their lines became disorganized requiring a halt to the chase. The delay gave Warren a chance to organize his men in such a way that as the Confederates advanced they would encounter fire from two directions. It was a brilliant defensive formation. The enfilading fire cut down most of the Confederate line officers. In addition, the simultaneous attack by Anderson from the west quickly broke down. Pickett’s division when they encountered Griffin’s entrenchments abandoned their attack and Field’s division behind Pickett arrived too late and by 7:30 PM Early withdrew his men after suffering heavy casualties. The only interpretation of the battle is the metal sign shown below.

Bethesda Church was located in the area of the Battlefield Park Elementary School- 37.6268321,-77.298299.

**School is across the field there was a construction site in front of it**

Haw’s Shop/Salem Church- 37.6761658, -77.2919659. During the Battle of Haw’s Shop, Salem Church located at the Haw’s Shop intersection (modern day Studley), served as a field hospital and General George Custer’s headquarters.

Enon Church- 37.6764778, -77.3109151. Although the cavalry battle fought here is often referred to as the Battle of Haw’s shop most of the action occurred in the fields and woods in and around Enon Church. On May 28th General Meade directed Sheridan and his cavalry to conduct a demonstration toward Mechanicsville to locate the Army of Northern Virginia. Sheridan tasked Gregg’s division to carry out Meade’s order, a total of about 3,500 men. Major Henry Avery’s 10th NY Cavalry led the column. At the Haw’s Shop intersection they turned west on Atlee Station Road. It turns out that General Lee would order a large contingent of his cavalry, a total of about 4,500 men, to conduct a similar mission that very same day led by Wade Hampton. At 8:00 AM they left Atlee’s Station toward Haw’s Shop and were moving east on the very same road (Atlee Station Road) as the Federals. The two columns would initially meet just west of Enon Church. The fighting continued for several hours. Action became so heavy around the Haw House (Oak Grove) that the Federals moved their field hospital there back to the Salem Church after an unexploded artillery shell landed under one of their operating tables. Each side was reinforced as the momentum of the battle shifted back and forth in the fields surrounding the church. Late in the afternoon, after most of the Federal infantry had crossed the Pamunkey, Torbert sent three brigades to join the battle under Merritt, Devin and Custer. It was at this time that a critical error was made that completely turned the tide of the battle. Rooney Lee mistook the dismounted 6th PA Cavalry and their supporting guns for infantry, and requested permission to withdraw his men which Hampton granted. This resulted in a domino effect across the Confederate line. Custer seeing the Confederate withdrawal charged and the line broke. General Lee had sent Breckinridge’s division east on the Atlee Station Road to reinforce Hampton but they arrived too late and helped cover Hampton’s withdrawal. The action is interpreted below.

Picture of Oak Grove, the Haw house.

Here on May 28, 1864 the Confederate cavalry under Major General Fitzhugh Lee in a severe engagement withstood for five hours the Federal advance, thereby allowing the Army of Northern Virginia to take its position beyond the Totopotomoy. Near this marker were buried many unknown dead of both armies.

Polly Hundley’s Corner- 37.6658922,-77.3405491. Hancock’s II Corp would pass through this intersection on their way to the Shelton House (Rural Plains).

Fighting would occur all along the line shown in the map below. It is interpreted at both the Shelton House (Rural Plains) and Polegreen Church.

Rural Plains/Shelton House- 37.6613145, -77.3460034

A shallow Union trench line is visible on the walk toward the creek at 37.654636, -77.345364 on the left. It does not photograph well. The downed tree lies over the trench in the images below.